Savusavu, Fiji

The sun has come out after several days of rain and the internet connection works, sporadically. This small community is mostly Indian, not indigenous as were the other island villages that we visited. Today is Sunday so the women are wearing lovely saris and families are out enjoying the sunshine and cool breezes. As is typical of most villages, everything is closed on Sunday and church is the order of the day, in fact, several times a day. Last night was a major rugby game between NZ and Australia but not understanding the game we passed on the festivities.

Tandem in Fiji

Bula from Fiji, our cruising destination until Oct. when we will head West to Vanuatu, New Caledonia and Australia. Rain seems to be a constant companion as it was in NZ but we soldier on and have enjoyed our visits with the locals in some isolated villages on islands that have no roads or other forms of transportation. For some reason the villagers have adopted the yachts that sail into their harbours and after we offer our sevusevu, a bunch of kava roots tied up with ribbons, to the chief the roots are mashed and mixed until the water looks and tastes muddy and we all sit on the floor and drink, in order of importance, out of a communal coconut shell. This can continue for several hours but after a few cups we usually find some excuse to head back to the boat. Each village that we visited invited us to a feast prepared especially for us of tasty foods that are grown in the vicinity. With no refrigeration, electricity, or transportation everything is cooked fresh over wood fires and sometimes in an underground oven. In addition to fish the menu usually includes fern fronds, taro greens (Sue’s favorite), eggplant and cassava. Usually a pretty cloth is spread on the floor over the mats and it is set with assorted plates and tableware. Tea is usually served, made of lemon leaves in hot water Women eat last after the guests and men have had their meal. Their generosity is difficult to understand and causes us to try to reciprocate so we have emptied our lockers of spare clothing and foodstuffs and have taken photos with our digital camera that we can develop on board. We should have brought more used clothing from NZ. The children are irresistible and those under 5 don’t generally speak English but have no fear of strangers and become your instant companion. This is fine when they are healthy but the last village had some serious illnesses that were making continual rounds and we have now been laid up for several days with intestinal problems. The school age kids leave home Sunday evening or Monday morning and hike a muddy trail to school which is far enough away that they board there for the week, returning on Friday afternoon. One parent takes turns to accompany them and to cook for them for the week. Classes are taught in English and education is given a high priority, even in the villages. So, there still is somewhere on this earth where people are living the good life untainted by outside influences, except yachties. With no TV, radio, SUV’s, coca cola, candy, shopping malls they live in small communities accessible only by small boat and manage to entertain themselves and live in harmony.The plan is to head into the more touristy areas with resorts and maybe even movie theaters, once our stomachs settle and we can eat again.